This is the story of how I merged an Airsoft ICS MP5A5 and a WiiMote and Wii Nunchuck into a WiiZapper substitute.

While I’m a little late to the party and this sort of thing has been done before, previous modifications have always left something to be desired, usually a good solution for the nunchuck.

I also didn’t like a number of things about the Wii Zapper.

- The Zapper has no sights, so aiming is difficult.
- The Zapper has no stock, you hold it in midair which can become tiresome, offset your aim and feels weird.
- The Zappers button configuration is the reverse of an intuitive layout, with B as fire and Z as action, leading to your trigger hand being in front of your supporting hand.

After playing Ghost Squad for about five minutes I decided the Wii Zapper wasn’t up to much, so I thought I’d see if I could do it better.

Waste Not Want Not

I decided to use an Airsoft ICS MP5A5 Sub-Machinegun for this project due to several reasons, partly because it was one of the more “realistic” items in my airsoft collection, featuring a metal body and several compatible accessories, but mostly because the little bastard had never fired more than five shots before breaking since the day I bought it. I’d spent way too much money trying to get it to work as an Airsoft gun, so I figure turning it into a WiiMote couldn’t do any harm.

I’m not one to waste a perfectly good airsoft body however, especially since the Violent Crime Reduction Bill came into effect, banning the import and sale of “Real Imitation Firearms” without being registered to an airsoft site within the UK, so this was going to require some planning before I risked fucking up one of my guns.

To begin with I just held the MP5 as I would normally, then I traced with a pencil around my hand on the gun, and I’d repeat this process until I was certain of where my hand would naturally grip the gun. I then taped some pieces of hard foam togeather to represent switches and the analog stick, then I gripped the gun again and adjusted the placement of the foam until they were in comfortable locations.

Using some 3d models from a previous project of mine that didn’t go as far as I’d have liked, I was able to produce some plans of where buttons and other items could be located on the foregrip of the MP5.

Foregrip left side

Most buttons remain in a Wiimote layout as the switch heads are too small to label. This makes it easy for me to remember what they are each used for.

Foregrip right side

The A button is placed on the tip of my index finger, while the Z button is on the tip of my middle finger, and the C button is accessible by the base of my middle finger.
Power and Sync buttons are also on harder-to-press click switches well out the way.

Inside

While most buttons fitted without issue there were some concerns about the internals, as the highlighted areas were intersecting, where the PCB of the nunchuck and the legs of a switch collided with a piece of metal from the MP5. I could have re-planned the position of these components, but my chosen method was to bend the legs of the switch and cross my fingers about the nunchuck PCB. The intersection was only 1mm, and that was well within the margin for error on my diagram.

Its full of stars

With my concerns about stuff fitting alleviated, it was time to take the bitch apart and figure out what needed to be done to fit the WiiMote inside.

An Airsoft ICS MP5A5 and WiiMote

To begin disassembly you need to remove the two locking pins, one in the stock and one by the magazine release catch. You can then pull the stock away from the receiver, and pulling backwards on the lower receiver will allow it to slide out from the upper receiver.
This is an important point to note, in that the lower receiver and gearbox must slide into the upper receiver from the back, otherwise the gun cannot be reassembled.
I’ll also remove the magazine and foregrip, which is released by taking out the forward locking pin and tilting the front of the grip downwards, then pulling it forwards away from the receiver. Again, this is the only way this item can be removed or reattached.

MP5 Disassembly, separated receivers

Here you can see the gearbox and lower receiver removed from the rest of the MP5. You can also see the battery connector and brass barrel, which are to be removed.

Unscrewing the butt of the grip reveals the motor of the MP5, which is then just disconnected and pulled downwards straight out of the grip.

Below the motor are a pair of screws which hold the gearbox onto the lower receiver and when removed you can pull the garbox off the receiver, as is the picture.

Gearbox and lower receiver separated

Prior to this I had also removed the fire selector, another important piece I wanted to integrate into the mod. The fire selector is comprised of two parts, a lever connector to a rod which runs through the gearbox, and another lever with a grub screw which grips the rod from the other side.
The airsoft implementation of the fire selector has the rod run through a piece of plastic which when rotated pushes the black plate (shown attached to the gearbox) back and forth, toggling between safe, semi and fully automatic fire modes.

Gearbox internals

From this stolen image you can see the internals of an airsoft version two gearbox, of which only the trigger mechanism would survive into my mod. The trigger mechanism is basically two open poles which can be shorted (closed) by another pole which is spring-loaded to return to the open position. This pole is pushed into the closed position by the spring loaded trigger. Nice and simple.

Upper receiver

Removing a single screw from just above the rear of the barrel lets you detach the front of the receiver, usually hidden by the foregrip.
Only three more screws hold the receivers two halves togeather, and comes apart surprisingly easily.

Upper receiver separated

Inside the receiver there’s little to look at now the gearbox is gone. The brass barrel runs into the hop-up assembly and the power cables run from the foregrip into the receiver via a small recess.

WiiMote PCB and the Upper Receiver

The previous picture failed to show this too well, but the WiiMote PCB is just slightly bigger than the space above the upper receivers indentations. The receiver has ample metal on these joints, so it is possible to cut a few millimeters into the receiver and create a recess big enough for the WiiMote to set in comfortably.

Gearbox Plans

With the knowledge that the upper receiver can comfortably house the WiiMotes PCB, I worked out what modifications needed to be made to the gearbox to accommodate the WiiMote.
As I mentioned before, the gearbox has to slot in to the gun from behind, so the areas marked with black lines needed to be removed. I had hoped to leave some of the front and top gearbox segments intact, so they could rest of pieces inside the upper receiver and ensure a snug fit between the upper and lower receivers.

My plans for the fire selector were also fairly simple – as the fire selector would pass through the gearbox, I could attach an arm to the rod of the fire selector at a fixed angle, and place microswitches above and below the arm which would be toggled as the fire selector and arm were rotated. Springs could be attached to the arm to supply tension and ensure the arm always returns to the center position.
The only way I could think of effectively attaching an arm to the 3mm rod of the fire selector was to use [url=http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4350898] a 3mm bore collar[/url], which would clamp onto the 3mm rod of the fire selector. Using a long screw to tighten the collar, you would then have a rod (the screw) protruding from the collar on the other side, which could hit a pair of lever-action microswitches.
Perfect !

Mr. Stabby

Now it was time to crack out the dremel and cut some chunks from the gearbox and receiver. I began working in the kitchen due to how cold it was outside, but this wasn’t to last very long.

It begins

After covering the floor with a fine layer of aluminium I was relegated to the garage:

Which of course needed tidying

Slightly better, minus the dust.

Gearbox Cuts

Here you can see what I ended up with – to accommodate the PCB a vast majority of the piston guide and spring housing has been cut out, leaving only a small chunk to keep some rigidity on the top bar. The front of the gearbox has also had its top half removed.

A tiny amount was removed from the upper and lower areas around where the fire selector mechanism needed to go, as otherwise the microswitches and collar would not fit. I also drew on a few lines to indicate where the arm should be able to reach, and added some crosses where the holes needed to be drilled in order to attach the switches and spring anchors. More on this shortly.

Receiver recess

Both sides of the receiver needed to lose 1mm from the middle bar in order to accommodate the PCB. I ended up using tape to show myself the boundaries of where to cut. I had intended on making an elaborate setup with a ruler and a dremel attachment so I could cut in a straight line without too much thought, but alas nowhere could I place the dremel attachment where it could reach the area I needed to cut… oh well.

Gearbox Drilling

Back to the gearbox and you can finally see the fire selector and collar in the final stages of planning the fire selector.
SW2 changed location a few times as i confirmed the extremes of the fire selectors reach.
After I drew on the final crosses of where the microswitches would be placed, I took the gearbox downstairs, smacked four dents into the casing with a punch, and took them out back for some vandalism.

Fuck my ass.

My first major mistake is made; after drilling the first hole for SW1 I neglect to confirm the location of the second screw hole. As a result I drill the hole way too far over. Luckily this is far enough for me to drill a second hole beside it, and thread it effectively.

Fuck my ear!

Mistake number two isn’t quite so bad, but in the process of tightening the bolts on the microswitches I go a little overboard and crack a

chunk out of the casing. Luckily there’s no damage to the internals of the switch.

I should have planned this better

After attempting to put the gearbox togeather for the first time it became abundantly clear that there is no way in hell the collar or spring mechanism were going to stay in place long enough for me to fit the fire selector rod. Let’s not forget that the way the gun goes togeather, the gearbox must be closed, done up, attached to the lower receiver and screwed on before the fire selector can be attached.

My new plan is to have a plate made to fit the gearbox and bolted over the top of the collar. Several screws around the collar will help to keep it in places while the rod is not present. I decided to use one of those murderously sharp pieces of aluminium from new PC case 5″ drive bays, and in the above image you can see the pencil marks of my planned cutout on the piece of metal.

Spring loaded

Four very short screws hold the collar in place, while two more have springs pulling the collar to a middle point. A third screw makes sure the assembly stays level.
This setup works perfectly with the gearbox open, but trying to close it reveals two problems:
1. There isn’t enough room for the trigger mechanism.
2. The uppermost bolt, Anchor 1, in placed in the exact location of the spring anchor for the trigger mechanism.

Mother f..

Trimmed fire selector plate

Some minor adjustments, two drilled and threaded holes later and the gearbox can be closed.
Hindsight: When I relocated Anchor 1 I neglected that I would be offsetting the midpoint of the fire selector. This turned out not be a huge problem, but it was certainly less than optimal.

Cracking open the Wii Mote

There are guides all over the internet on how to open up the wiimote – a tri-wing screwdriver and a little determination, although what most guides neglect to mention are the difficult-as-fuck-to-remove clips at the front of both the WiiMote and nunchuck. In both cases the best way to deal with these is a good penknife and some leverage. Remember to point the blade away from you, and the top should be levered outwards. I managed to get my WiiMote innards free with minimal damage to the casing, so I might turn it into WiiTorch or something like that, I don’t know.

WiiMote Bits and Bobs

As it stands there wasn’t too much to do to the WiiMote, mostly it was going to be a case of carefully attaching cables and removing switches.

To begin with however we needed to have the nunchucks analog stick available so we could begin on the foregrip.

Drilling the foregrip

If I drilled a hole wrong on the foregrip there wasn’t much going back, so my approach as to do as little as possible and double check every holes distances. Using my caliper I put a number of small indentations into the foregrip itself as distances taken from the 3d layout I constructed earlier.

Clamping the foregrip to my workbench and wedging a piece of wood between the left and right sides to dampen vibrations, I slowly drilled into the plastic with a small drill bit, and slowly scaled up the hole with the next size bit. This seemed to keep the hole nice and straight, and stop the bit from biting on the plastic at slower speeds.

Cutting out the hole for the analog stick was done in much the same way, however once I drilled up to the largest bit available it was time to crack out the dremel and a coarse sanding attachment. In order to cut out a circle I first scored a circle into the plastic using my caliper at a fixed radius, which was taken from the opening on the nunchuck body itself, and then I used tape to mark out the edges of this circle. I could then sand the plastic until i reached the edge of the circle and started to cut into the tape.
Once the rough circle had been sanded out, I used a fine sanding attachment to repeatedly go around the edge. At this point I began to place the detached analog stick inside the hole and rotate it to its extremes, and look for any edges which were not angled correctly.
I could also use this method to see if any light was showing through between the analogue stick and the foregrip, and could sand more off as needed.

Hindsight: Drilling holes onto an angled surface is very weird. Always use a guide to confirm you’re drilling at a right angle to the surface, as even your best guess could be way off.

Securing the nunchuck assembly

My original idea had been to use nylon thread and some nylon spaces to secure the nunchuck in place. Essentially the PCB would have two legs

sticking out the back and pushing the analog stick into the hole. Unfortunately this was a very flaws way of doing things:
- The legs needed to be attached before they were placed inside the foregrip. The result was incredible frustration when trying to position the assembly.
- Extending the spacers/legs when the assembly was in position was nigh-on impossible
- The nylon spacers offered almost zero friction, and the assembly would slide out of alignment
- With the analog stick pressed up against the foregrip hole, there was too much friction to use it.

What do I do now dad?

With all these problems I decided that it wasn’t worth the hassle, and thus drilled and threaded another two holes into the foregrip. Nylon thread could then be run through these holes and into the assembly, holding it in place. This worked way better than I was expecting, and made the nunchuck 100% usable.

Legs were still present leading to the back, and stopped excess pressure on the nunchuck making it fall back inside the foregrip.
Unfortunately I had to gluegun the threads in place, as the legs leading to the rear were not threaded.

Hindsight: After gluegunning the legs in position I realised the nunchucks analog stick was off-angle very slightly. This turned out to be nothing major, but it doesn’t look as good as it could.

A, Z, C

This shows the analog stick from behind, but also illustrates another problem; I had to order a second red switch for the Z button after I accidentally overheated the first one, causing the leg to melt the casing and recess into the switch body.

Hindsight: Almost goes without saying, but solding onto any delicate components, and components with meltable bodies, you should attach a heatsink of some kind such as a crocodile clip to the piece being worked on.

Its full of cables

After attaching every single switch to the foregrip the end result was a complete mash of wires, each labeled for their given purpose.
In the end there were 29 wires running out of the foregrip (2 per switch, 5 for the nunchuck).

Magazine != clip

While waiting for the new switch to arrive I decided to sort out the magazine, which would house the batteries for the wiimote. This seemed like the ideal position due to its size, easy accessibility and the weight would be in the centre of mass.

Simply soldering a pair of 9v battery clips togeather and cutting the original magazine shaft in two worked fantastically.
The battery assembly and plastic magazine shaft are inserted into the metal magazine shell, and a single metal rod is inserted to keep the shaft in place.

Plug n Play

The end result is fairly simple.

Some of the worst soldering in my entire life

The following is mostly solder-related shenanigans of trying to connect up the WiiMote and its assorted components. Simply extending the

WiiMote buttons to elsewhere shouldn’t be that difficult, right?

Camera and nunchuck attachments

Both the WiiMote IR Camera and the Nunchuck socket were painful items to remove, as while their tiny pins were easily desoldered, neither of their larger brethren which hold them securely to the PCB wanted to come loose. In the end I had to heat up the large legs while applying force to detach both items, which lead to burnt fingers and bent legs.

I also had great concerns about overheating delicate components such as the IR Camera with the excessive heat I needed to apply to free the damn thing.

Disaster!

During the course of desoldering the WiiMote IR Camera, reaching over my desk to re-tin my soldering iron I waved the iron too close to the magnetised speaker. The speaker promptly leaped off the table and attached itself to my soldering iron, burning through the thin layer of plastic which makes it function.

Gutted.

Appalling

As previously mentioned, some of the soldering onto the PCB was pretty bad. Soldering onto flat points never tends to go very well, and some of these attachments really didn’t want to stay in place. Several things were made abundantly clear:
- Use flux
- Use even more flux
- Use tape
- If the fucker still falls off, use your glue gun.

I had origionally intended not to desolder the flat buttons on the wiimote, but when one came off almost by accident I decided to remove them all. I could then solder the cables directly to the points on the board. While attempting to attach the minus wire however I overheated the track causing it to semi-detach or raise up from the board. Immediately I was paranoid and gluegunned this bugger and his friends straight down.

Capacitor

I also had to relocate the capacitor as it collided with the gearbox in its original location. I ended up relocating it twice as my first attempt put it in an even worse location.

Cthulhu

With all of the soldering directly onto the PCB done, the wiimote was now looking very intimidating. I suddenly had the realisation that there was no way in hell these wires were going to fit through the gaps I had origionally intended. Oh well, more bridges to cross.

Smile for the camera

In order to put off dealing with the huge number of cables I’d been presented with, I decided to get to work on making the IR camera assembly.

This would mean I could test the mod before putting it all togeather, and tell me if I should continue to completion, give up, or look for splashed solder all over the PCB.

Before creating a method of mounting the camera I first had to find a suitable location to mount it. It was made clear to me pretty quickly that there would not be enough room in any parts of the MP5 I had available without the camera being glaringly obvious.
To this end I rummaged around in my draw of goodies and produced a [url=http://www.kastwayairsoft.com/images/products/King%20Arms/KA-SIL-18_medium.jpg]SOCOM type suppressor[/url]. An airsoft suppressor is fairly simple in its design, it is an outer casing which attaches to your rifle, and inside this casing are donut shaped foam inserts. Simple!

Best Laid Plans

My plan was to try and mount the IR Camera at the front of a piece of 14mm dowel, and to do so I hitched on a plan involving the last of the drive bay plate metal. I decided I could sandwich the camera between the metal and the IR filter pane by drilling and tapping holes into both.

I could then fold the plate metal along the dowel, drill another hole through both the plate metal and the dowel and securely bolt the items togeather.
This would assure the camera was flat and always pointed forward, whilst being protected from damage by the IR filter pane, AND in a position where it could easily be removed, rather than permanently locked into position.

Warranty void if dropped

As brilliant as my idea was, I could still fuck it up. Case in point, I somehow decided it was a good idea to prepare the drill holes with the punch instead of my usual method of reaming a dent into the plastic followed by rotating a small drill bit carefully.
The result of twatting it with a hammer was for the thing to fly across the kitchen and split clean in half… Luckily there was still plenty available to drill with the upper half, so off to the garage I go to dremel and drill my way out of a hole.

Pre-Assembly of the camera mount

Here you can actually see the assembly I devised. I added a piece of foam to the mix to avoid damaging or shorting out the camera.
A piece of 14mm dowel is inserted from the bottom and bolted into place, while bolts are inserted from the front though t he IR filter and into the plate metal to secure than camera firmly.

Super Solder

With every other task complete on the road to getting dis bitch back in working order it was high time I actually got on with the troublesome and angering soldering. The WiiMote camera proved to be an absolute bastard to solder, the combination of tiny legs in close proximity to eachother led me to much worry and paranoia about overheating the camera itself or accidentally snapping one of the legs clean off.

Once the camera was soldered securely I taped these thin wires to the 14mm dowel and soldered extensions onto these with much ticker wire (of which I had more). The tape would hopefully anchor the wires in place on the camera assembly, and stop excessive forces pulling wires free.

Hindsight: When labeling wires, remember that the numbers 9 and 6 will look identical. Also remember to only cut a single wire at a time when their labels are on the side being cut off.

At this point I also started to attach some connectors so parts of the mod could be connected up, in preparation for the next stage…

Testing

Almost scared of the result I plugged the camera and battery onto the WiiMote. Shorting the power switch the Wii blinked and turned on.

Shorting the A button the main screen came up. Looking good!

Waving the suppressor at the TV yielded little results. Dismay. Looking at the connector layout I soon realised I had cocked up the connection.

A quick disconnect and reboot later and a pointer showed up on screen, albeit way off from where the suppressor was pointing. Good enough for me!

Jamming it all togeather, and Revisions

In order to get the gun back togeather it required a hell of a lot more work then I had expected. Origionally I expected it to take 48 hours, but this turned into almost two weeks.

The first main problem was due to the sheer number of cables going through the receiver

Spaghetti

Here you can see marking on the gearbox, located where it would sit when the gun is assembled.
The lower portion had to be removed to allow the cables to fit through next to the hop-up unit, which itself had to be cut in half to make room. The upper portion of the gearbox was removed for even more cables to fit, and to minimise interference with the WiiMote.

Clean Shaving

Here you can see the result. I decided to leave a bit of the gearbox bottom in place as there is a supporting pillar there.
This cutting of course required the gearbox to be opened up, cleaned and re-greased. God damnit.

Too many god damn wires

Here the wiimote is located between the receiver and the gearbox as it would when the gearbox is closed. From here I measured how much needed to be cut off from the foregrips cables for them to reach. Lets not forget these cables needed to be connected before the foregrip could be attached, so some excess was required.

Conveniently the rumble motor fits exactly in the space where the airsoft barrel would exit the receiver, so it could be easily and snugly located in the middle of the gun.

I also had to cut a large 1×1 centimeter square from the receiver in order for all the cabled to fit. This was way more than I had previously been expecting to remove to fit all the cables.. it was starting to dawn on me that the foregrip might be troublesome.

Cramp Twins

In truth, the foregrip was a mess of cables with far too little room to fit anything. None of the wires (1 strand, 1mm thickness) were flexible and connectors didn’t want to stay attached when they were forced into recesses.

Assembly?

In fact, trying to assemble the damn thing revealed a few problems:
- The camera cables were far too long, and the excess was not flexible.
- The power cable was far too long
- There was no way in hell the foregrip would go on.

Damn.

After a lot of consideration I decided the only simple way to solver this problem would be to run out to Maplins and grab some 10 strand 0.1mm wire and re do all of the connectors in the foregrip.

I’m Melting

1. Unscrew switch
2. Cut heat wrap from connector (x2)
3. Desolder connector (x2)
4. Desolder switch (x2)
5. Resolder switch (x2)
6. Slip on heat wrap (x4)
7. Resolder connector (x2)
8. heat up heat wrap (x4)
Repeat (x12)

On a plus side my soldering was far more awesome than before, but on a down side it took all day. Luckily Z and C connect directly to the nunchuck so they didn’t need doing. The nunchuck itself was still in a position where I didn’t want to try and remove it, and as such I cut the original inflexible wire in half then attached more flexible wire to that.

Aah, Much better.

Here the foregrip sits with its new hairdo, a mess of flexible cable unraveled for my convenience. It felt almost like 75% of the cables had been removed.

Assembling the lower receiver

As you may remember, the fire selector is controlled by the collar inside the gearbox. The rod for the fire selector (which I’m holding in the picture) has to be inserted after the gearbox is closed, and the lower receiver has been attached. This provides an interesting conundrum of how to tighten the collar up when the gearbox is closed.

My solution was to attach the alan key to the collar before closing the gearbox, and to assemble everything with the alan key in position.
Once everything was assembled, the fire selector could be inserted, rotated to the extreme clockwise position, and the alan key tightened to lock the collar around the rod.

This took several attempts, sometimes the springs would pull the collar back to the neutral position and the alan key would slip free, sometimes the springs would detach from the collars arm. In the end I took the collar out and dremeld down the thread on the collars arm, preventing the springs biting and releasing themselves from the assembly.

Some assembly required

Finally with every other cockup taken care of I started to put the damn thing together.
- Attach both halves of the upper receiver (2 screws)
- Attach the front of the upper receiver (1 screw, 5 connectors)
- Attach the lower receiver and gearbox to the upper receiver (2 locking pins, 3 connectors)
- Attach the foregrip to the upper receiver (1 locking pin, a billion connectors).

Convenience

As I hadn’t mentioned it previously, the gearbox connects to the Wiimote via connectors in the back of the gun. This is exactly how the airsoft implemention would connect to the battery.

Finished Article.. ?

With the MP5 finished the togeather I decided to try it out. Pushing the power button revealed.. nothing. What? It worked before!
Disassembling the gun revealed nothing, and the WiiMote powered up without issue, however assembled the gun would refuse to turn on.

Mistake #1: The power cable adapter ran to a pair of connectors, which then ran to the WiiMote. This measure was to make sure excess tugging on the power cabled would not damage the wiimote cabling. Unfortunately the power cable connectors just fell out all the time, so I decided to do away with these pretty quickly.

Mistake #2: The power and A buttons has become swapped. This was the inevitable result of my marker pen writings being rubbed off the connectors and my assuming which was which. D’oh.

Mistake #3: A similar occurrence with the nunchuck cables, which I had labeled UVW. This changed to XYZ as U looks a hell of a lot like V when faded, and W is hard to write on a 2mm square.

Mistake #4

For whatever reason, the MP5 would not power on when the gearbox was connected. A quick test of plugging in the connectors but not having the gearbox inside the gun seemed to point to an electrical short of some kind between the gearbox frame and the WiiMote.
Rather than cut down the gearbox any further I hitched upon a quicker solution:

Tape that bitch up

Electrical tape is awesome.

Finished Product

Are you sitting comfortably?

Then I’ll begin.

Attaching a red dot sight to the MP5A5 gave me a shocking advantage in Ghost Squad, and utilising the reconfiguration option I was able to make the gun 90% accurate, with the reticule straying perhaps half an inch on a 40″ TV.

A problem I found during the configuration of the camera was the sensor bar location – the pointer only seemed remotely accurate while the sensor bar was located below the TV, and when set to being above the TV it was off in the stars somewhere. Perhaps this was merely my setup.

The gun itself is fairly heavy still, even with so much of the innards removed. I can get through one session of Ghost Squad and I have to have a rest, but then I am fairly weedy.

Build Time : 23rd January 2008 to 18th February 2008.

Cost : £79.50

Final thoughts

I can no longer play games with the curtains open.

I have no prior experience in this kind of thing, so completing this build with so few hiccups was a surprise.

I went through 4 dremel reinforced cutting disks. One shattered after biting into the side of a cut. Eye protection, people.

My fingertips feel slightly smoother than they used to.

And finally…